Float Plane at Talkeetna
Monday, July 30, 2012
Denali to Anchorage
Float Plane at Talkeetna
Denali to Anchorage
Tue July 24 we only drove 120 miles down the Parks highway, stopping a little below Trapper Creek to unhook and take the car for a ride on Petersville Road, This road is actually in Denali National Park and is reported to have excellent viewing of the mountain when it is ‘OUT’, and we were hoping maybe to see some wildlife, and maybe a burl for our son to make a bowl. Burls are round protrusions on a white birch or spruce tree, and I understand Cherry trees can get them also, It’s debatable what causes them, some folks told us a virus, some an insect, and some an injury. We stopped at this wonderful little place called Wal*Mike’s on the way. He sells a little bit of everything, I bought a Fitz and Floyd Santa, we ask him if he had any burls for sale and he said we were the second person to ask for one today. Mike said we should find plenty if we went about 100’ off the road, but he didn’t have any to sell. We then stopped at a German bakery just up the road from Mikes and purchased a loaf of pumpernickel bread, asking there if they knew where we could buy a burl, she said we should just be burl burglars! The trip up Petersville road was unproductive, no wildlife and no burls spotted, and no mountain OUT. When we got back to camp Norm went for a walk in the woods and spotted 3 of them, but we had no saw, so back to Wal*Mikes in the morning for a bow saw we had seen there for 5 bucks.
Glory to be the Mountain is “OUT”, AND GLORIOUS IT IS. I didn’t want to stop at Mikes I wanted to go up the road to a lookout where there was to be great viewing. We pulled into Mikes first anyway and bought the saw, but it was certainly a lucky stop because a friend of Mikes was there and Mike ask him if he had any burls on his land, and he said sure, they are all over, and offered to take us there and cut us one, no charge. Well that was the beginning of our great adventure! Steve Strong lived about 10 miles up a dirt road on what he called a farm, in a cabin he had built himself about 40 years ago, and raised 5 children in. His daughter and granddaughter live there with him at this time. His wife of 45 years had a stroke and is in a nursing home. His daughter was cooking pancakes for her daughter on propane stove as they don’t have electricity, and he just punched a well 2 or 3 years ago. Steve said he raised his family there on creek water that looked red with tannin. He works construction when he can and raises sheep, pigs and horses. While we were at his place there was an awesome view of the mountain and he said I’ll take you where you can get a better one, He must have stopped 5 times for me to get pictures.
There were blueberries all around. We drove around looking for a burl when he spotted one high on a spruce tree, he just whipped out his chain saw and cut the whole tree down. He told us about some of the other farms up there, most of them were homesteaded from 1956 thru 1966. The government gave them 160 acres of land to come up and settle here. There were no roads in the area so those who came here had to come up the river and pick their land. Steve came in the 1970s and he said he paid the government $350.00 per acre for his land.
On the way down the hill a neighbor stopped to tell him he was going to Homer fishing and Steve could use his backhoe while he was gone. Everybody helps one another out here. I mentioned we were headed for Homer and hoped to get some halibut there and he wanted to go chasing after him, said he would take us out fishing with him. I told him please don’t, but he tried to call him anyway with no luck. It was a very interesting morning, he didn’t want any money but Norm insisted he take something for gas. When he dropped us off at Wal*Mikes we headed up the Parks highway to Mile marker 136 where there is a turnout with great Denali views. Took lots of pictures there then headed into Talkeetna to browse the shops and eat some really good pasties,(meat pies) and some homemade raspberry pie. Went home to Mickey and Norm tried to cut off the burls but the saw was too dull.
Norm woke me early to announce that the mountain was out again so we headed back 30 miles up the road for the views. More pictures! We met a woman there who came up at 11pm at sunset last night to get pictures and the photos were good enough to encourage me to do the same tonight. We also met a couple from Montana who flew here and were fishing. They said if they caught any salmon today they would call us as they couldn’t take any back. We went back to Talkeetna for lunch and more views down by the river. We had lunch with the couple from Montana. We have found that the lodges built by the cruise ship companies often have beautiful views so we drove up to two of them and were not at all disappointed. We purchased a larger new bow saw, Norm was determined not to let that Burl beat him, and went back up to the Lodge to wait for sunset pictures. After taking the pictures it was about 11:15pm and we started back to the motorhome, when we spotted a fox playing along the road. We stopped to watch and were really treated to two foxes playing with each other and pouncing on one another like a cat would, what a treat! When we got back to the motorhome, he went into the woods to cut those burls from the trees, around midnight he came back a beaten man, they were just too hard and high to get without a chain saw. He sure did give it a valiant try!
7-27 It’s another gorgeous day but we should move on, I really enjoyed spending our time in Talkeetna. Left our site at Mile marker 104 and headed south 29 miles where we stopped for more mountain views and a spot to park while we explored Hatcher Pass with the car. The Hatcher Pass road is paved for the first 11 miles then turns to gravel and ascends into beautiful alpine country passing by beaver dams and lodges and running along a beautiful mountain stream. Close to the summit is a gold mining company and several abandoned mines visible high on the mountains. After the summit, about 30 miles, the road got so bad we couldn’t continue and turned around and headed back, I hope to do the other side from Palmer on our way back from Homer. We spent the night in Wasilla, (Sarah’s Hometown), passing a lot of people sunbathing and swimming at a lake by the road.
Saturday there was a large market in Anchorage so we traveled 40 miles south and checked it out. There was a large Artic Air show going on at Elmendorf AFB, and they had a beautiful day for it. We have had 4 days of sunny hot weather, temps in the 70s. Walked around downtown and went back to Wasilla, for another night.
7-29 we moved to Anchorage and took a side trip down the Seward Hwy to Girdwood, Portage Glacier, Whittier Tunnel, and Mt Alyeska, which is where Alaska’s largest ski resort is located. Last time we rook the tram up the mountain and played in the snow but today it was cool and windy so we wimped out. We were traveling along the Turnagain Arm, where if your there at the right time you can see great Bore tides. As the tide rises in Cook Inlet it fills Turnagain Arm so rapidly that a tidal flood is formed when incoming water collides with the outgoing water. Bore tides here can vary from ½ foot to 6 feet high and travel from 10 to 13 MPH. We also drove up a dirt road searching for those elusive blueberries. We found a few but not enough to do anything with, but we did find several glaciers and a gold mine.
We were going to head south today but because of a minor problem with the motorhome charging the batteries we decided to stay in Anchorage where we can get an appointment to get repairs tomorrow. It’s raining anyway so a good day to read and catch up on laundry.
Wednesday, July 25, 2012
Fairbanks To Denali
Fairbanks to Denali
Arrived in Fairbanks (North Pole Alaska) around noon and
started to explore. Where else would you expect to find Santa Claus’ house, and
street names such as Santa Claus Lane, Kris Kringle Drive and Snowman Lane to
name a few. We soon noticed the car was
making a noise, so off to the Seekins Ford garage. A stone was lodged in the
brake somewhere and they fixed us up at no charge. Pretty nice of them!
Took pictures of the pipeline and drove a few of the back
roads looking for moose, no luck tonight. Woke up to rain and temps in the 50s so
the Museum of the North at the University of Alaska sounded pretty good, and it
was! We went to view the muskox first, at a university run farm, then we spent
the entire afternoon in the museum. They had Alaska’s largest public display of
gold, many wildlife exhibits, and a lot of information on the native peoples,
and their crafts. There was also an awesome art gallery.
Fri the 19th
was a rest day for us, We went to the North Pole Visitors center Where the very
nice girl, a transplant from Atlanta GA, directed us to a nice community of log
homes with sod roofs, I commented on the rhubarb growing everywhere and she
invited me to pull some in front of the center, She said she had never tasted
it, I got enough for a custard and baked it that afternoon. We went to a
laundry mat for the first time in years, we have a washer dryer in the rv but
since we are dry camping we thought it would be easier to get it all done at
one time. Shocker” the washers were $8.50, and the dryers were .70 for 6
minutes. Well at least it didn’t take as long as it would have in the
motorhome, and I met an interesting character, a fellow who dumpster dives and
sells his findings at flea markets. There are two military bases near here,
Eielson Air Force Base, and Fort Wainwright Army Base, when the soldiers get
orders, they leave a lot of their belongings behind, as it is not sensible to
pay to ship them, hence he finds a lot of good things. He told me of the
Fairbanks dumpster war in 2009, when a councilman wanted to impose a fine on
anyone caught raiding the dumpsters. Five hundred dumpster people showed up at
the meeting and the councilman even voted aghast his own proposal. and left
town in less than 2 weeks.
Friday we went to the Golden Days at Pioneer Park, Where
they had a flower show, and quilt show, in addition to the other attractions
there. The park is set up like an early village in Alaska,
with little shops in the homes, many of which
were moved here from other places in the community. There is also a large
sternwheeler on display. They have a nice Salmon bake there but we partook last
time we were here so decided on some Greek food tonight. From there we went to
the WEIO Games WORLD ESKIMO INDIAN OLYMPICS, The auditorium was filled with
Eskimo artists selling jewelry, carved tusks, fur coats, drums and much more.
The games are representative of the skills the Indians needed to survive the
unforgiving Arctic. Blanket toss, the athlete who jumps the highest with the
most grace wins this one, Greased Pole Walk: a test of balance needed to cross
wet logs across creeks or reach a fish wheel, Ear Pull, they sit facing each
other with twine looped around their ears and tug as they lean backwards until
the string comes loose or someone gives up. This is a test of the ability to
endure pain. There are also dances and costume contests, many more games. Took
another ride moose hunting with no luck, Norm says they don’t come out during
the rain, but I think they can’t bed down forever and that’s how long I think
it’s going to rain here!
Sat we woke up to rain again, we attended the pioneer
days parade and afterward another moose hunt! We ended up at the downtown Visitors
center where we viewed 3 movies and looked through a very interesting display
we went home to Mickey and are getting ready to head south toward Denali
tomorrow.
Well we left our
campsite at North Pole Sun. 7/22, and headed south on Parks Highway (#3). It is
about 121 miles to Denali from Fairbanks and 348 mi to Anchorage. After about
40 miles Norms keen eye spotted Skinny Dicks! He had remembered seeing a pin
from there in the University of The North Museum. We had both commented on the
pin because it had two polar bears on it and I collect Pins from places we’ve
visited for my badge sash. In the museum it was on a model outhouse.
He hunted a pullout and we went back for a pin. It was
quite the place. We met a couple from Easton PA there who had heard about it in
Anchorage at a comedy performance. They were out of pins but had one earring
that they kindly gave me, it will work just fine I can replace the back. They were suprised to learn thier pin was in the museum, and said they would order more.
We arrived at a pull out, six miles north of the Park
road, around noon in plenty of time for a drive to Savage River in the park.
This is as far as you are allowed to drive your car. If you want to go any
farther you must take a park bus. The big attraction is the bus trip 92 miles
to Kantishna an old gold mining site and Wonder Lake where there is a good
viewing point of Mount McKinley or Denali (the high one), 20,320 ft. high! The
Bus trip is 12 hours long and depending on the weather you may be among the 70%
who don’t get to see the mountain. We were so lucky last time we were here to
see it 3 times; the sky is so full of clouds we decided not to take the bus
this time. 12 hours on a school type bus just doesn’t sound that good to me.
The Caribou/ Reindeer did show themselves along the Savage river. After
leaving the park we took another ride on Stampede Trail, the road taken by the
fellow in the book and 2006 movie “Into the Wild”. There are some beautiful
views from there and BINGO, we saw a moose.
Monday we went to Denali Visitors Center then took the
bus to the Dog Sled Demonstration. The dogs were all sleeping when we arrived
but did they ever perk up when the ranger got the sled out. They love to pull!
After that we drove south, about 12 miles, to locate a bakery that we had
stopped at in 2002 and see if the same people were running it. Back then by the
road was a bakery and up on a hill there was a very nice restaurant.
We got to know the mother of the folks who were operating
the restaurant; she ran the bakery and baked the bread and pies for the
restaurant. She is from Oregon and doesn’t come up any more for the summers.
The two boys who were teenagers at the time have taken the bakery over and now
it’s a pizza and Pub, and they do a great business (the name is The Perch for
those of you coming after). We stopped for a pizza and it was excellent. The
place on the hill is only open for breakfast; they said they had staff
problems. They also have a few cottages for rent. It’s interesting to see the
changes 10 years makes. Back to Denali to go to Savage River again, this time
we hiked the loop, I like my walking sticks, saw more Caribou but no sheep. We
talked with some folks who were on a Fantasy Caravan who had taken the bus and
they didn’t get to see the mountain, but said the trip was worth the ride.
Olympic games
Fairbanks Golden Days Parade
Sod roofed homes in North Pole
Part of the largest display of gold in Alaska
Pump House Restaurant
Getting our Motorhome stone chips repaired
Pipeline North of Fairbanks
Sod Roofed Houses at North Pole AK
Largest display of gold in AK at the Museum of the North
Pump House Restaurant
Getting the dings fixed in the motorhome windshield
Sleepy sled dogs
Wide awake when they thought they were going to get to pull the sled
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