Saturday, July 4, 2009


Tipical fishing harbor we're seeing many of these and they are all beautiful.
An old abanded light house above Rocky Harbor, We had a long hike to reach it passing a garden deep in the woods on the way.
Lobster traps along the road, lots of them especially on the west coast.

June 23,
We left Rocky Harbour at Gros Morne national Park and headed north to iceberg country on Saturday June 13th. The ride up the coast of the Gulf of St Lawrence was another of those with a picture around every corner. The land is unspoiled here, just clear, blue water behind a rocky coast with a fishing village sprinkled in now and then for interest. We’re in moose country now and they are making an appearance every now and then along the road. If they step back into the forest there is no way you could see them as the trees are sooo thick. The people plant gardens along the roads anywhere they can find a spot. The soil looks dark and rich, they are all fenced in to keep the moose from enjoying their work.
It was a 5 hour drive from Rocky Harbour to St Anthony where we stayed at Triple Falls RV Park. We went to Fishing Point to view icebergs and we weren’t disappointed. There were several big ones right out there in front of us. There are three names for icebergs around here. A bergy bit is about the size of a car, while a growler is the size of a house and a genuine berg can rise 200 feet out of the water. Only 1/10 of an iceberg is visible above the water, makes it hard to imagine what they look like if we could see all. We were told the locals go out and gather up chunks when they break apart, to use in their drinks. Imagine drinking 10,000 year old water. Some of the bergs are a bluish color, caused by melting and re freezing, others are stark white. They have the water bottled in the gift shop.
The clerk at the gift shop said the whales were making appearances in the harbour and we should come back tomorrow. They are chasing small fish called capelin. We ate dinner there at the lighthouse keepers house, now a restaurant, recommended by Frommer’s and a list of other publications. Our other choice for dinner would have been a celebration of the icebergs which was held in a sod building just down from Lightkeepers. I called for the menu, it was traditional Newfoundland food, Jigs dinner, which is salt beef and cabbage with a few other veggies thrown in, and moose stew, rice and a shrimp casserole. I had been pre warned about the Jigs dinner so I think we made the right choice. We went back the next morning hoping to see whales but the fog was too thick to see anything.
Our trip to L’Anse au Meadows was a step into the Viking world, where we walked on the land the Vikings settled over 1000 years agio. They have excavated the old sites and built replicas where costumed Vikings show us a bit of life 1000 years agio. Norm donned a helmet and shield, see picture. Life sure must have been tough on this rock in the winter! In the summer they lived on the bountiful cod, seal, and whale.
On to Roddickton, the “Moose Capitol of the World” where the main industry has been lumber, however with the close of the pulpwood plants the lumber industry has come to a standstill. The municipal building had a very nice display of the area attractions along with a stuffed moose, one of two we saw at the “Moose Capitol of the World”. The town is trying to turn to tourism for the economy since the large lumber mill burned. We hiked to an underground salmon pool, where we watched salmon, swimming upstream, disappear in an underground tunnel through the rock and reappear in about ¼ mile where there was another pool and the stream went underground again. There were fly fishermen trying their luck at catching one of the 5 they can bag for the season.
We met Wilson, a friendly local who directed us to our parking spot for the next two nights at the ice hockey rink. He said most people here live off the land, on moose fish, berries, and gardens, and they pay 200 dollars for the right to cut 8 cords of wood per family for heat.
We observed teenagers swimming in a stream, and ask Wilson if it was common to swim in 55-60 degree weather. I thought it was just boys being boys trying to impress the girls, but we were gone for several hours and they were still swimming when we returned. Wilson said the ice just went out of that stream 2 weeks prior, but that was common for them to be swimming. Again I say these are a hardy bunch!
On the way to Conche we drove through a marble vein and the road was made of marble stones, they no longer mine the marble but it is said to be very fine quality marble. We spoke with a fisherman at the dock and he pointed out a whale in the harbour. He offered to take us out in his boat but we declined. The Newfoundland people are super friendly, and down to earth!
We are heading west now to take the ferry to Labrador.
Hugs to you all
Lois
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